Adjusting the shaft height

ADJUSTING SHAFT HEIGHT + ESSENTIAL SHAFT INFORMATION

To adjust the height, hold two adjacent shaft sections one in each hand.
To unlock: grip then twist your right hand towards you, then extend or compress the tubes to suit. Do not extend passed the STOP mark on any section, except to dismantle the shaft.
To lock: grip the shaft (not the plastic collar); twist your right hand away from you steadily and firmly (not fast and abruptly) until tight. Use steady firm turns (not quick snappy ones) when tightening any expanding bolt; this allows time for the nylon/plastic of the locking mechanism to engage fully against the inside of the shaft wall.

Set bottom shaft at the 'A' mark to keep the pole lightest at this end for an easier pendular action. When adjusting the upper sections use the EVA sleeve for a firmer grip. Before use, lean your weight on the pole to ensure that each shaft section is locked securely (check again when in use particularly if there is a temperature drop).

How to Assemble:
1. There are either white, orange or blue expanding bolts depending on the Pacerpole shaft type; check the
expander is positioned near the top of the threaded bolt, and its flanges are parallel.
2. Align shaft sections end-to-end in a straight line, and insert.
3. Push to required length, then twist the upper shaft section away from you whilst holding the lower section tight.
Continue to twist until the bolt "bites" ...then twist another full turn. (There is no need to over-tighten by continued twisting.)
4. When the pole is assembled, lean on it to test that the bolts have been tightened enough before use.

To personalise your
shaft height click here

Remember after use, dismantle the shaft into sections, stow in mesh bag and hang somewhere dry until needed.

ESSENTIAL SHAFT INFORMATION

If you can't undo the shaft...
If you do happen to over-tighten the sections and can't undo them - then either clamp the handle between your feet (back of the handle towards you), hold the shaft section firmly with both hands and twist it hard anticlockwise - or - use a piece of rubber or latex glove (stowed in a pocket) to wrap around the shaft section for a better grip; twist hard!

Alloy Shaft Section Not Locking?:
A. If the section twists continuously without locking try stretching-wider the expanding bolt's white upper flanges with fingers - and then re-try.
B. A sudden temperature drop has an affect on Alloy and on nylon-plastic (expanding bolt flanges) - as these materials contract at different rates - so check shaft sections …as they may need retightening.

The Expanding Bolts:
Dismantle the shafts into their sections and note the white expanding bolts (Alloy poles) or coloured ones (Carbon poles). As you twist the bolt down the thread, the flanges widen (so they can grip against the inside of the shaft wall). When you twist the bolt up the thread, the flanges flatten - which allows the section to slide inside the other section - so you can adjust the shaft height etc. The tube diameter of the carbon shafts is narrower than that of the Alloys, and their bolt flanges need to expand at the top as well as the bottom as you twist the bolt down the thread (so that a bigger surface area is gripping the shaft wall); this means it will take an extra half twist before both the top and the bottom flanges are fully 'out' so you may feel you are over-tightening. Similarly when twisting to unlock, an extra half twist is needed before both the bottom and the top are flattened enough to slide the section - when wanting to adjust the shaft height (or dismantle after use).

To Lock Any Shaft Section:
Try using steady, firm turns (rather than quick, abrupt ones) when tightening any expanding bolt - this allows time for the nylon-plastic of the locking mechanism to engage fully against the inside of the shaft wall. Until you are familier with judging the amount to turn then you may over-tighten the sections so you can't undo them - suggest using a section cut from a thin rubber glove (or equivalent) or one of the latex gloves which you can stow in your pocket ... then wrap it around the lower shaft section and grip-and-twist the upper section to undo.

Using Carbon Shafts in Strong Winds or Fast Flowing Water:
The 12mm diameter Carbon bottom shaft section is very light and more easily 'blown about' in strong winds. When in these conditions, to increase its weighting adjust the shaft sections so the middle section covers more of the bottom section .... and then extend/increase the top shaft section to personalise the pole height again. Do the same if moving over rough scree or boulder fields to protect the bottom shaft section. Afterwards, remember to re-adjust bottom shaft to the "A" mark, and the middle shaft to your personalised pole height to raise the 'weighting' of the pole for an easier pendular action (see Weight v Effort on FAQ page).

Shaft Care Information:
Condensation can occur inside any tube and dampness can cause the metal thread of any expander to oxidise as white, rough markings - so they won't perform as they should. To avoid this happening - dismantle any Carbon or Alloy shaft into sections, stow in the mesh bag and hang somewhere dry until needed. Allowing dry air to circulate keeps the poles happy! Do this after use .... or if using everyday - then perhaps overnight when possible.

Use plain water to clean the poles as necessary - and allow to dry .... inside and out! DO NOT LUBRICATE inside any shaft section or their expanding bolt (as the poles rely on friction locking).

The Threaded Pacerpole Baskets:
The baskets are threaded so you can exchange the smaller baskets for the wider snow baskets just by pulling-and-twisting firmly to remove, and then pushing-and-twisting firmly to replace. It's easier to do if you wrap a piece of rubber/latex glove around the tapered shaft section for a better

Check Basket is free to rotate when in place at top
of the tip-housing.

grip whilst twisting the baskets. All baskets should be finally positioned with their top touching the top rim of the plastic tip housing and be able to rotate independently of the shaft; this avoids the shaft twisting and loosening the expanding bolts which can happen if the basket is fixed/stuck between rocks, deep bog or snow and you twist to free it. To retrieve, remember to twist in the direction as if you were tightening the expanders and not undoing them! In snow - putting a smear of grease such as Vaseline at the top part of the tip housing above the threaded section, can help avoid the plastic basket binding to the plastic of the housing, reducing the chance of them becoming frozen together in very low temperatures.

The multi-directional rubber street-feet:
The 'street-feet' should be removed when you move off hard surfaces onto a track or open country (and stow in a pocket until needed). If on dry rock - then the 'street-feet' can be used for better contact (but the rock needs to be dry, otherwise they may skid).
The rubber 'feet' are used to reduce the 'click-click' noise when the carbide tip hits hard/paved/tarmac surfaces - which can be very anti-social; the rounded shape is not direction-specific and can be used up or down paved slopes. Remove the 'street-feet' though, even if on these hard surfaces - when they are slippery with leaves/snow/ice, so that the exposed carbide tip can bite into the ground for better grip. Here, take smaller steps, to keep the stride length under the pelvis/trunk (consider increasing the rate rather than length of stride, if wanting to increase speed); keep the trunk vertical when you go up a slope (if you lean forward your foot could skid backwards as you pushed against it). Coming down, then lean a fraction forward and keep the knees slightly bent.

News + Reviews

Steve Perry, TGO 2006
I often wondered on the winter challenge how on earth I managed the Summer Munro round without Pacerpoles.... It's the speed you can move and the distance you can cover with them... (Read more)

TGO Magazine, March 2009
Pacerpoles have been my favourite trekking poles for several years now due to the angled handles which are shaped for the left and right hands. (Read more)

Trail Magazine February 2007
Compare this to any other pole and it is noticeable how much more energy-efficient the Pacerpole design is. (Read more)

TGO Magazine, April 2006
I've used Pacerpoles more than any other in recent years. They're the most effective, they increase efficiency by enabling your arms to help propel you along... (Read more)

Remembering Steve Perry 1971-2019

As a tribute to Steve Perry, who died in the snow on Ben Hope a year ago, 5th February 2019, with his good friend Andy Nisbet, we’ve reproduced the start of the interview about his Winter Munros journey he did with Dan Bailey for UKHillwalking.com…..... For the full article click here

Steve's 121-day Winter284 challenge covered around 1500 miles and 450,000 feet of ascent over all 284 Munros (there are now officially 283). This was undertaken a few years after another epic journey, a 7.5-month walk from Lands End to John o' Groats (LEJOG) via every 3000-footer in England, Wales and Scotland. He's clearly a glutton for punishment.
Over the 2005-2006 season Yorkshireman Steve Perry completed the first, and to date the only, continuous winter Munro round on foot - one of the hardest mountain journeys ever undertaken in Britain. We asked him to relive the experience.

Was LEJOG too easy or something – what made you think to do Winter284 in the first place?
Looking back at both challenges now, I feel the Winter284 round topped the LEJOG in difficulty and hardship but I suppose that was the aim.
I didn't invent the idea of a continuous winter round; Martin Moran had already completed a very fast vehicle-supported winter round in the 80's and Mike Cawthorne had hiked a continuous winter round of all 135 thousand metre peaks in the 90's. In the end a continuous walking round of the whole lot was just hanging there waiting to be picked and after my LEJOG hike it felt like the right thing to do, a natural progression perhaps.

How did you train and generally prepare for it?
Physically I did nothing extra outside my normal routine of weekends spent out in the hills. I did however prepare myself mentally by regularly running the route through my mind to envisage how different and more diffcult it would be opposed to my LEJOG round. On top of that I basically spent a lot of time convincing myself I could and would do it, and by no means ever give in.

How did you plan the route in advance, and did the plan change at all as you went along?
This was simple and took no time at all, I just altered the starting point used on the LEJOG round from Ben Lomond to Ben More on Mull. This meant a slightly different route through the early southern Munros and was cetainly more efficient. Once underway I changed my route twice; one was only slight yet enabled me to quickly climb 5 Munros around Glen Dochart without a pack, and then spend a night at Crianlarich SYHA in bad weather. A second more sizable alteration swapped the order I passed through Glen Etive, Glen Coe and Ballachullish. Both changes were on the advice of Lorraine McCall who had just completed a continuous summer round herself (see this UKH article), and both worked perfectly.

What influenced your choice of gear?
Basically I needed gear that kept me warm and dry. I searched for a layering system that covered a range of temperatures so there wouldn't be a constant stop/start of stripping off and putting on layers. The system also had to be simple; I didn't want lots of different layers and styles, less is more and all that. I also decided that being comfortable at night, and trusting the tent would guarantee sleep and essential rest. For all this I was prepared to carry extra weight. I've never been an ultra light guru thats feels a sleeping bag is too heavy if they're not shivering in it - I'd prefer a few extra pounds and comfort, any day.

My main influences were people I knew to be very active in the outdoors and actually use the gear they recommended; Lorraine McCall, Chris Townsend and Neil Mcadie to name but a few. Their advice mixed with my own experiences suggested the kit list.

Kit list

Smartwool mid weight long sleeved top x2
Rab Vapour-rise jacket
Rab Latok jacket
Rab Neutrino down jacket
Rab Vapour-rise pants
Rab Latok pants
Smartwool socks x 2 pairs
Smartwool long johns (for sleeping in)
Berghaus Yeti Gaiters
Berghaus Kibo GTX boots
Grivel Air Tech crampons
Mountain Technology ice axe
Pacerpoles with snow baskets
Extremeties Ice Gauntlet gloves
Extremeties Tuff Bag mitts
Extremeties Hot Took hat
Extremeties Thinny gloves
Berghaus C70 Pro Bio-Flex Rucksack and pack liner
Therm-a-Rest Pro Lite 3 (Full Length)

Terra Nova Discovery bivi bag
Terra Nova Laserlight tent
Rab Quantum 800 Neutrino sleeping bag
Primus Gravity stove
MSR Titanium Cook Pot with handle
Titanium fork
Swiss Army knife
Compass (glow in the dark)
Ortleib map case
GPS
Disposable lighter x2
Silva L1 Head Torch
Snow goggles
Sun glasses
Suunto Vector watch
Camera
Runner's bum bag
Titanium cup
Toilet roll
High tech river crossing kit (bin liners + elastic bands)

What about logistics?
I spent a day at home making up parcels for each section of the route. Myself and Lorraine McCall then drove hundreds of miles around the Highlands leaving them at SYHAs, pubs, hotels and with friends. A typical box would contain Wayfayrer Meals, pasta, dried milk, sugar, cereal, chocolate (lots), Nutri-grain bars, biscuits, batteries and maps.

You didn't carry a full pack over every hill: how far did you factor this ability to go lightweight into your route planning?
There are lots of mountain groups where it was possible to store my gear then pick off the surrounding Munros fast without the pack. The base could be a bothy, a hostel, my tent or basically my pack just left at some point central to the group. It was crucial never to lose the pack so I always took a GPS reading of its position before leaving. My lightweight approach comprised a bum-bag with crampons and ice axe tied on to it, a map and compass, headtorch, snacks for the hill and a cup to drink from. I never once carried water, only a cup, and I never struggled to source it.

How often did you camp versus staying in hostels?
In total there were; 28 nights in my tent (4 of which were above 3000 ft), 25 nights in bothies and the rest a mixture of SYHAs, bunkhouses, pubs and friends' houses.

Did your schedule ever feel tight? What about unplanned delays?
For the challenge to be a success I had to complete it inside the winter season, between December 1st and March 31st. Towards the end it became very close indeed with me reaching the summit of Ben Hope around dinnertime on March 31st. There were also plenty of unplanned delays in which I lost valuable time. In total I spent seven frustrating days off the summits due to bad weather and three days of scheduled rest.

Until Glen Shiel I was always just ahead of schedule but after losing two consecutive days there I was chasing my tail all the way to Ben Hope. But I never seriously doubted I'd do it.

What were ground conditions like that season? Ever wish you'd brought skis or snowshoes?
The first few weeks until Christmas were almost totally dry and frozen conditons, with temperatures dropping below -10C regularly yet no heavy snow worth mentioning. Underfoot the ice was treacherous and I had the bruises to prove it. The first real snow came between Christmas and New Year along with very high winds that kept me off the hill in Glen Coe.

January was a mixed bag; snow flurries, high winds, whiteouts, sleet and then fantastic high pressure through the Cairngorms bringing sub -15C temperatures with magnificent inversions.

For the full article click here...

Nigel Wragg; UK
We’ve now done a couple more walks including some good up and down sections. Uphill we definitely have more power and the action is easy to maintain.(Read more)

Stuart Skinner; UK
I have just returned from the US having successfully hiked the Appalachian Trail. I have nothing but great things to say about my pacerpoles....(Read more)

Mark Inglis; NZ, Everest 2006
I could get significantly more power out of them ... (and on) very tough days, they certainly meant that even when very tired and fatigued you could use them with accuracy and confidence. (Read more)